Take me away to São Miguel
Europe’s Hawaii.
Written By Mary-Anne Hampton
Fancy the lushest, greenest and steamiest of getaways in a land lost in time? Tropical wilderness meets quaint European charm? An eye feast of cascading waterfalls, craggy cliffs leading to gothic black sand beaches, toasty volcanic hot pools in the centre of Jurassic fern forests, and luminous crater lakes? Book your ticket to São Miguel ASAP, and pack your most sensible hiking shoes and least favourite bathing suit.
Header Pic: Lagao de Fago by Sergei Wing. Above Pic: São Miguel by Kevin et Laurianne Langlais
WHERE IN THE WORLD?
Nestled in the Atlantic almost halfway between Europe and America lies the nine steamy little volcanic islands of the Açores. Part of Portugal since the 15th century, during the Portuguese big boat era, claiming any land they happened to bump into, the Açores are an autonomous region with a strong Portuguese flavour. If you arrive in season, from June to September, there is a ferry system available to shuttle you between the nine islands affordably. If you arrive, as I did, during pre-season for less busy times, the ferries are intermittent and island hopping is more difficult. Luckily São Miguel, the largest and most accessible island, is a gorgeous wonderland with more than enough to discover all on its own.
WHERE TO STAY
São Miguel’s capital Ponta Delgada is a charming Portuguese port town, with narrow cobbled streets made from calçada (small square stones) laid in oceanic-themed mosaics, and ornate colonial architecture with a very pleasing black and white colour code, with accents on the white-fronted buildings crafted from black volcanic basalt. It’s a great launchpad to explore the island from any direction, including the ocean, as it’s the base for the whale-watching tours the Açores is famed for. If you’ve ever wanted to catch a glimpse of a migrating Sei, Fin, Humpback or mighty Blue whale, this is the spot for it, as well as resident Sperm Whales, Pilot Whales and orcas.
I stayed at Out of the Blue, a hostel with both individual rooms and dorms available. It was the perfect spot for a solo female traveller. Clean, cute, safe and well situated. They serve a delicious breakfast in the lovely communal garden and outdoor dining area every morning, where you can mingle with the eclectic, from 18-80-year-old guests, and find fellow adventurers to bumble around the island with, if needs be.
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Ponta Delgada central square; Plantação de Ananás dos Açores for signature local pineapples; São Miguel coast (Picture by Alex Baker-); A quintessential sperm whale tale (Picture by Andries Meijer); Igreja do Colégio dos Jesuítas showing off some basalt accents.
While the hostel ran thorough tours, car hire is highly recommended. Driving tiny town streets is a little nerve-racking, if exchanging wing mirrors isn’t your idea of a good time, but the freedom to explore the island at want is priceless. The weather in São Miguel is a moody beast, with thick fog descending daily, but it was almost always sunny somewhere. It helped to have a car to chase the sun around the island.
If you’ve seen a postcard of the Açores, more than likely it’s of this lake, located in a dormant volcano crater. Go on a good weather day if you want to see the distinct blue and green colours of either side of the lake. São Miguel is all about the miradouros (viewpoints) and the drive to the town of Sete Cidades is chock full of them, from the Vista do Rei to the spectacular Miradouro da Boca do Inferno. If you’re feeling active, there are plenty of hikes around Sete Cidades and the surrounding lakes, as well as outdoorsy vitamin D soaking activities like biking, SUP and kayaking.
Sete Cidades (Pic by Martin Munk)
PONTA DA FERRARIA
Carry on from Sete Cidades and you hit the coast, with a seriously steep descent down a winding road for the chance to have a dip in a volcanically heated ocean. This little cove, surrounded by towering lava rock cliffs, has a geothermal natural spring beneath so you can slosh about in hot and cold water, while holding on to a rope to avoid being swept out to sea. Aim for mid-tide for the perfect temperature mix. The cove is also a lovely sundowner spot, although the spiky volcanic rocks aren't exactly comfortable.
FROM BOTTOM LEFT: The cliffs around Ponta Da Ferraria; A little too high tide at Ponta Da Ferraria (Pic by Parker Hilton); Sundowners on the rocks; The rope to hold onto at Ponta Da Ferraria
LAGAO DO FOGO (Fire Lake)
A beaut of a lake, even though it was more fog than fire. But when the fog lifts, my word, it is breathtaking. Lagao do Fogo is a natural reserve and remains unspoiled, so no swimming or leaving trash behind, you dirty little raccoons. You can hike to the lake beach on a slightly dubious trail, and then wander its shore for as long as your legs allow, soaking up all that natural beauty. Just save some energy for the hike back up, and choose the path back wisely.
LEFT: Lagao do Fogo; RIGHT: The lake beach.
CALDEIRA VELHA
Soak those hike-weary legs in hot springs in a Jurassic jungle, a little way along from Lagao do Fogo. There are two thermal pools for a tropical lounging experience, as well as a beautiful waterfall spring to cool off in between those natural jacuzzi bouts. Just be aware that your costume is at risk of changing colour due to the high iron content in the springs, and if you have dyed hair you may emerge a ginger, whether that was your intention or not.
FROM LEFT: A thermal bath at Caldeira Velha natural Spa; The waterfall spring at Caldeira Velha; High temperature warning sign for a boiling geo-thermal pit.
FURNAS
Follow the aroma of rotten eggs to the geothermal holes and springs where the locals let the earth cook Cozido das Furnas (Furnas Stew) in steaming holes for 6-7 hours. The exact opposite of a vegetarian-friendly dish, this stew is made of every farm animal known to God and Azorean alike, as well as local veggies like sweet potato and kale. I gave it a skip, and steamed myself instead, with another geothermal dip at the five pools of Poça da Dona Beija. Motorcycle or donkey, or a wander to the Salta de Prego waterfall, through beautiful forest and ancient, abandoned, crumbling stone villages. It’s difficult not to be absolutely enchanted by São Miguel.
LEFT: Geothermal holes at Furnas for cooking Cozido das Furnas; RIGHT: The Poça da Dona Beija thermal baths
HONOURABLE MENTIONS
Wear footwear on São Miguel’s black sand beaches, or risk a foot roasting. Try kloofing in the stunning Parque Natural da Ribeira dos Caldeirões, if you enjoy a safety-conscious rock scramble down a series of gorgeous waterfalls. Choose between countless breath-taking walks, whether it’s the steep path to the tiny fishing village of Rocha Da Relva, only accessible by foot, skilled motorcycle or donkey, or a wander to the Salta de Prego waterfall, through beautiful forest and ancient, abandoned, crumbling stone villages. São Miguel is enchanting from coast to coast.
CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM LEFT: Sete Cidades and flower; Ribeira Grande, a black volcanic sand beach (Pic by Joao Melo), Kloofing at Parque Natural da Ribeira dos Caldeirões; Crumbling cottages near Cascata do Salto do Prego
