Lanzarote, Canary Islands
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Reflecting back on our visits for over 10 years to the island, the thing that sticks out is how integrated food and wine are into the landscape. Every place has something to take in that is unique to the island. The most memorable restaurants were those with small dishes, including papas arrugadas con mojo (small wrinkled potatoes with a sauce, either red or green), with a glass of wine from the local volcanic Malvasía grapes (unique to Lanzarote), and a stunning landscape there as a living painting to enjoy as much as the food.
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César Manrique has had an outsized impact on the island. Manrique was a sculptor and an artist, but his two biggest impacts on Lanzarote were combining sculpting and art with his work as an architect and an activist. He clearly loved his native Lanzarote, where he returned in 1966 after his time studying, working, and exhibiting in Madrid and New York.
Manrique’s position on global tourism: He believed that high-quality tourism should be an economic driver for (sustainable) development of the island, and carried that through with many complex and interesting tourist attractions that allow for the natural beauty of Lanzarote, including the Jardin de Cactus, Taro de Tahiche, Casa / Museo César Manrique, and…
Jameos del Aqua - restaurant, volcanology exhibit, event venue, and blind crustacean habitat all rolled into one, all inside caves made out of lava tubes.
From beachside grilling to picnic treats (with visitors) and great “adult treats” - Lanzarote’s culinary charm has got it all.
La Graciosa
On that first visit, our host Tila took us and a group of other guests on the 25 minute small boat ride from Orzola in the north of Lanzarote to the islet of La Graciosa. The island is the jewel in the centre of the view from Manrique's Mirador del Río - floating in a sea of blue.
On that particular trip, on Tila’s recommendation, and after a conversation with the fishmonger, we ended up getting a whole barracuda. A bit of salt and pepper, and some experimenting on the grill, left us with a meal (with some papas arrugadas prepared in our outdoor kitchen), that was enjoyed in the sun on a cosy terrace, with crisp cold local wines, hot sun, a few mosquitos, and great company.
LEFT: The buildings here match the landscape: basic and rustic yet beautiful in their own way; RIGHT: The luxuries of the Canary Islands' cuisine.
Worthy of Many a Return
In over a decade since that first visit, we have returned to the eternal spring of Lanzarote many more times, including after having our son, then after finding out about his genetic condition (Trip 12), and enjoyed it with new friends made on the playground, family, and even a birthday. The wind is almost constant, and the weather never reaches the heights of the Mediterranean, but the charm of this Volcanic rock in the Atlantic and its food with a view stays the same.
With Love and Limpets
Sarah, Jordan, and Iggy
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