Naoshima, Japan

Jan Agelink's experiences, written by Jordan Roake

 

Jan Agelink is, by his very trade, a seeker of beauty. As a trend forecaster, it’s not only beauty he’s after, however… Jan is in the game of newness, adventure, feather-ruffling-sh*t, you know? So, when we heard that he’s taken a trip to Naoshima, Japan a few years back, we just had to find out the why’s, where’s and hows of it all

 

Where you'll find Naoshima (it's tiny!) as well as what you can expect to find on Japan's art island 

 

What one needs to know, before looking into Jan’s travelled story, is that this man has a particularly electric way of describing the things he sees, does and tastes. Listening to his passionate outpouring on the subject of art and culture is, well, a gift that ought not to be dismissed. Whilst I’m lucky enough to be writing this story on Jan’s behalf, I’m also lucky to have heard a bit about this place from him, albeit over Zoom.  

 

Culture Shock 
Based in Amsterdam, our Dutch friend is no stranger to new coolness, eclectic trends and slick taste. Japan was, however, so very different. Jan began his Japanese journey in Tokyo, as most would (or should? I am a novice here… Japan only hovers above me as an “I need to go here” bucket list point). Anyway, he began in Tokyo and loved the place, which should come as no surprise - a creative in Tokyo seems something of a match made in heaven. The culture is so Japanese, that if you’ve never been to Japan, you won’t even get how quintessentially Japanese it really is… It’s a sentiment I’ve heard from others who’ve had the privilege of visiting the country, that it’s just so uniquely Japanese, so obviously something different, something special, that you almost can’t put words to its definition. At a glance, Jan’s whole description of Japan was something of a “culture shock” - in the best possible way. Perfectionism that’s almost fanatic, somewhat neurotic - everything is the way it's meant to be - perfectly, fanatically, neurotically so. And that, in a nutshell, is what makes Japan (if nothing else) such a fascinating place for anyone with a deep-seated desire for the wildly different that’s executed superbly well. This contrast, as is heavily expressed through Japanese pop culture, is very inspiring, says Jan.

 

Getting there 
From Tokyo, Jan made his way (via a bullet train, in true hyper-modern Japanese style) to Okayama, then hopped on a bus to Uno port where he ferried the rest of the way. Jan described the trip on the bullet train through the country as “modernism mixed with traditionalism.” He described the stark contrast between the hyper-modernism of the train he was riding in with the traditional views outside its windows - rolling hills, manicured the traditional way - a vision of an old world, from within the new world.

 
Japan, the perfect show of contrast between man-made and natural beauty

 

Why Naoshima? 
Naoshima is known for its art, and is part of a collection of Japanese islands that are fondly referred to as “the art islands.” Given this fact alone, it’s not hard to see why someone with a keen eye for upcoming trends, undying notions of art and the beauty of creativity would have Naoshima on his “to visit while in Japan” list. Never having heard of the island prior to our chat, his description of the inspiration he found here was enough to get it on my own “places to see” list.

 

What to do and where to stay 
Considering that his trip was a good three or so years ago, there are certain details that Jan had to omit… Name of his hotel? Not really important. It’s a small island, and the hotels are more or less similar - nice enough (only in comparison with the surroundings, I’m sure, otherwise it might be a considerably great hotel), with great food (something we don’t always hear - a far shout from the usual “eat anywhere the locals eat and don’t eat at the hotel, okay?”).

 

As I mentioned, Jan was emphatic about the tiny physical nature of Naoshima. You get around by bike and he said that he rented an electric bike that looked and felt “like it was from a century ago.” Another cool reference to the contrasting modern and traditional found in Japan! Once on your bike, and if the weather’s as good as it was on Jan’s trip, you can cycle the whole island in one day - if you didn’t stop to gawk at the art, that is (which is the whole point in being there… so, maybe cycle the island over 2 days like Jan.) When I asked Jan if he felt his 2-day stay was long enough, he said maybe he’d add one more day to the mix. He felt that, because of its size, he reaped the full bounty it had to offer in inspiration. One thing he would’ve liked to do, however, is visit Teshima island; a neighbouring art island home to the Teshima museum, another full-to-the-brim, all-year-long exhibition of inspiration.

 

On Naoshima, you’ve got to find the works of Kusama. Not hard to find, her dotted artworks quite literally dot the island and exhibit that perfectionism we spoke of earlier - even, linear dots on beautifully moulded, somewhat eccentric figures.

 
The works of Kusama, literally dotted around the island waiting for you (or your little ones) to explore

 

Benesse House is another must-visit spot on the island. Owned by a family whose entire goal was to preserve art, they brought art to the island and later opened the museum to house the collections.

 

Then there’s Chichu Art Museum, which truly struck a chord with me. The museum is built completely underground, with artists using the natural light that shines through specially-designed skylights, corners and tunnels, to illuminate their work. One artist whose work resonates with the structure of the museum, in particular, is James Terral, whose work is monumental and expressive of light and dark. The top of the museum is covered in the most perfectly manicured lawns and expresses that much-spoken-of perfectionist touch, once more. In one part of the museum, you walk “through” a hill and into the most exquisite and calming exhibition of ice sculptures, Jan tells me.

 

Besides the works within these museums, art is scattered (in perfect harmony, of course) throughout the island’s landscape. The art mixes with the surroundings and ensures that you are constantly surprised by the beauty, constantly mesmerised, and never unamused.

 
Examples of Japan's distinct architectural style are aplenty here 

 

The Food 
One can tell, just by talking to Jan, that his appreciation for the artistic sensibilities of Japan is incomparable. Even when it comes to food, Jan describes the cuisine of Naoshima and Japan as an art of precision. The textures, he says, are his favourite food memory. Interesting textures, backed by soft colours and soft bites.

 

Overall, the island feeling of Naoshima was never lost on Jan. By riding a bike around its every inch, one is constantly reminded of the small nature of the floating island, and the wonderment it holds is made even more miraculous. He hopes to take his children to the island someday soon, to which I applauded him. Travel with your family… to cool new and interesting places, those memories are vivid. More vivid than any travel one can get in adulthood.