Malta
Pictures don’t do the blues of Gozo’s views any justice.
When in Malta, it’s advisable to go your own way, and by this, I mean: rent a car. But make it a small car, as the narrow streets and parallel parking situation make anything bigger than a Fiat 500 somewhat of a “mission impossible” scenario. With rented car in tow, take a slow meander towards Sliema, a resort and residential town on the east coast of the island.
ABOVE: Taking in the sights of Malta on foot, the best way to see things (in my opinion, anyway).
As mentioned above, I’d suggest Sliema when it comes to your Maltese stay. A friendly mix of locals and tourists abound on this part of the island, and it’s but a short walk to the passenger ferry port to Valetta. Its charming streets are full of places to stay, eat and play (pool bar, anyone?). When it comes to booking your accommodation, there are plenty of options on AirBnB and we opted to take on a two-part stay (mostly because the place we really wanted could only take us on for a few days of our week-long visit).
ABOVE: Ornate doors decorate Sliema in colour and detail.
Places to See
Valetta
Take a stroll down to the port where you can buy a day pass for the ferry to and from Valetta. Arriving in Valletta, Malta’s capital city, feels like you’re entering a realm frozen in time. The city greets visitors with its splendid fortress walls and quaint cobblestone streets. Wandering through the city's narrow alleys, I discovered ornate palaces, picturesque balconies adorned with flowers, and charming cafés that exuded a warmth on a cool December day (nothing like other European winter expeditions… a sunlight-speckled chill but no snow… my kind of winter). The vibrant history and cultural heritage were palpable at every turn, making Valletta an explorer’s dream.
LEFT TO RIGHT: Views from Valletta; The Valletta Promenade; The narrow streets (and even narrower parking spots) of Valletta.
Mdina
Hop in your car and take a short drive to Mdina, the ancient, fortified city that feels like stepping into a fairytale. The city's narrow streets and towering bastions showcase a magnificent blend of medieval and baroque architecture. As I strolled through the silent alleys, I felt transported to another era, surrounded by grand palaces and captivating churches. Watching the sunset from the city walls was an awe-inspiring moment, with the sky painting a breathtaking canvas of hues across the Maltese landscape.
ABOVE: Wandering the streets of Mdina.
The Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum
The Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a must-see for all those intrepid adventurers with a taste for history. This underground necropolis provides a unique glimpse into Malta's prehistoric past. The intricate chambers, rock-cut tombs, and captivating artworks are bound to leave anyone in awe of the island's ancient inhabitants. The haunting beauty of this underground marvel is a testament to Malta's rich historical tapestry.
LEFT: Religious statue of the Virgin Mary and Child in Mdina; RIGHT: Some street art we found in Mdina
Gozo
Take a drive from Sliema, as we did, or get a ferry ride to take in the wonder that is Gozo. Even on a brisk winter’s day, I couldn’t help but want to dive into the crystal blues that surrounded the rugged coastline of this idyllic place. Its picturesque countryside, pristine beaches, and quaint fishing villages welcome you to explore. The stunning Azure Window, a natural limestone arch rising dramatically from the sea, was an experience that left me spellbound.
LEFT TO RIGHT: Catching some much-needed rays in Gozo; No matter the weather, Aperol Spritz’s were enjoyed all-round; My mom taking in the views of Gozo.
Blue Grotto
Blue Grotto, a cluster of sea caves bathed in mesmerizing shades of blue, simply beckon one to bask in its natural wonder. While we didn’t embark on a boat ride to see what lies within its mystifying oceanic caves, I’d say with conviction that this is a summer holidayer’s dream day trip.
What to eat
I must admit that 2018 was a while ago… and my memory has not served me too well in terms of remembering every restaurant, bar and eatery that we indulged our tastebuds in. That said, there are a few local delicacies that one ought not to miss out on while in Malta. If you’re a meat-eater, you may want to explore the traditional side of life: Maltese rabbit stew. I’m told it's the perfect warming dish for a winter’s day (or a hearty summer’s day dinner, too). Other popular offerings include ftira (a local bread topped with fresh ingredients) or my personal favourite, Pastizzi. You can find a recipe for these deliciously flaky pastries filled with ricotta on the Castaway blog, but another favourite is the curried pea variety. The perfect on-the-go snack or lunch for those moments when sitting down is not an option (so many places to see, so little time, am I right?).
LEFT TO RIGHT: A fresh produce market in Gozo boasts a plethora of goodies; Looking for a bite to eat on a cold Maltese winter’s day; Lemon trees grow outside many of the residential properties in Sliema.
December Festivities
The December season also brought with it a festive atmosphere, as the island was decked with Christmas decorations and preparations were underway for the upcoming holidays. Exploring the lively Christmas markets and joining in the local festivities provided a delightful insight into Maltese culture. Religious activity is also felt on every inch of the island during this important season in the Christian calendar, with Roman Catholic churches ringing their bells to the tune of the island’s beauty all throughout the day.
LEFT TO RIGHT: Sanctuary of Our Lady of Mellieħa; The awe-inspiring interiors of St John’s Co-Cathedral in Valletta; The Church of Our Lady of Victories in Valletta.
LEFT: Taking in the beauty of the Carmelite Church in Mdina; RIGHT: Inside the Carmelite Church in Mdina.
Night Life
Speaking of festivities, we took a (long) walk on a couple of occasions towards Sliema’s famous nightlife, where Sicilians come in their hundreds for a good time. We bar-hopped our way towards the nightclub district of Paceville, indulging in a pool bar or two along the way. By now, I’ve no doubt that the night scene is somewhat different to what it was back then, but according to my research, Paceville is still the place to be for party-seekers alike.
LEFT TO RIGHT: Celebrating my brother, Tyler’s, matric results with him on a night out in Paceville; Having a cognac in a cosy café in Valletta; A makeshift “Springbok” shooter made for us by a friendly, inquisitive barman at a Sliema pool & karaoke bar.
Shop ‘til you Drop
Malta boasts a plethora of fresh produce markets where locals and visitors alike gather to savour the flavours of the Mediterranean, which is especially helpful if you, like us, choose to stay somewhere with a kitchen (save those bucks and make something tasty at home occasionally). The bustling markets overflow with colourful displays of ripe fruits, fragrant spices, and aromatic herbs. Wandering through the stalls, I couldn't resist the temptation to sample the juicy oranges, plump tomatoes, and the island's renowned honey-sweet figs. Alongside the produce, I discovered stalls selling locally crafted goods, including handwoven textiles, intricate lacework, and beautifully designed ceramics. The shopping experience extended beyond the markets, as I explored the charming boutiques and artisan shops that dotted the streets of Valletta and other towns. From unique jewellery pieces to contemporary fashion, the shopping scenes offered a delightful blend of traditional Maltese craftsmanship and modern designs, allowing me to bring a piece of Malta's essence home with me.
LEFT: A produce stand sells fruit and veg on Triq il-Merkanti, Valletta; RIGHT: Church of St Lucy, Valletta at night.
All-in-all, my trip to Malta sparked a new-found joy and excitement that my 21-year-old self so needed. It was during this family trip to this intriguing and mysterious island in the Mediterranean, that I began to find myself again. Despite being an unconventional time to visit, our journey in December offered a unique perspective on the island's wonders. Navigating the narrow streets of Sliema in a rented car, we discovered a charming resort town that served as an ideal base for our adventures. Exploring the captivating streets of Valletta, I was transported to a bygone era, surrounded by ornate palaces, flower-adorned balconies, and cosy cafés where my mom and I bonded over cognac served in classically-warmed glasses. A short drive away, the ancient, fortified city of Mdina enchanted me with its narrow alleys and towering bastions. The Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum revealed Malta's prehistoric past, leaving me in awe of the island's rich history. A visit to Gozo showcased picturesque countryside, pristine beaches, and quaint fishing villages, while the Blue Grotto beckoned with its mesmerizing sea caves. Indulging in local eats aided the journey of the culinary adventurer inside of me. The December festivities, accompanied by lively Christmas markets, immersed us in Maltese culture and the island's religious traditions. Evenings led us to Sliema's vibrant nightlife, culminating in Paceville, the renowned nightclub district, where my brother and I bonded over boozy laughter and celebratory drinks for his matric results that year. These core memories will stick with me forever, and I hope they serve some purpose to someone else who may be looking for something a little different, a little out of the ordinary, a little something like Malta.
Beautiful old signage & shop-fronts line the streets of Malta.
