Go West: Crete, Greece
Discover the lesser-known side of Greece’s largest island. Gob-smack at the magical beaches, water taxi or hike along the wild coastline or just find an empty cove and take a chill pill.
STAY AT AN UPLIFTING SEASIDE HOTEL
Ammos, 5km away from Chania Old Town, is a blend of summer informality, family-friendly facilities, unexpected design, pieds dans l’eau situation and perfect service. It’s deliciously stylish. A big bonus is that breakfast is served until a very civilised 11h30. Good to know: Nikos, the owner is also working at Red Jane, a bakery in the city centre. ammoshotel.com
1HR 10 MINS (48km) HR DRIVE FROM AMMOS HOTEL
BALOS BEACH
Our July visit meant that you woke up to 28 degrees temperatures, so beach trips need to be planned early bells or you will be fried by 12 noon. Balos is unbelievably picture card perfect - your camera phone may just explode with all the joy it captures. TOP TIP: When you arrive on the dusty access road, remember that when you have parked your vehicle you will still have 40-50 minutes of walking before you ascend down to the gob-smacking beach. Caps, sunblock and water are NB!
PS: Falasarna, & the gorgeous pink sands of Elafonissi seems picture-perfect too, but we ran out of time.
55 MINS (23km) HR DRIVE FROM BALOS BEACH
ACROPOLIS TAVERNA, POLIRINIA
After a few hours wading in the shallow glorious waters of Balos, head back via ancient Polirinia and the shack-like Acropolis taverna. You will need to wind your way up through narrow roads and traverse hairpin bends. The reward, apart from the views, is the humble classics served by Yannis. This was our first taste of Boureki (baked layers of minted courgettes, potatoes and local cheese) as well as Stamnagathi, one of the many variants of bitter greens that the Greeks have. You can’t get simpler but simple is often the most sublime.
LEFT: Looking down on the cliffside hike to Sweetwater Beach.
RIGHT: Freshly baked goodies from Ammos Beach Hotel, near Chania.
20-MINUTE WALK FROM AMMOS HOTEL
NIKOS TAVERNA
As the sun sets, and the temperature finally drops to ‘bearable’, wander up the hill and find yourself at a little square with Nikos Taverna on one of its corners. Packed with spirited locals, it’s a kick-your-shoes-off kinda place. Amazingly we spotted the courgette flowers stuffed with fragrant rice and served with Greek yoghurt so thick, you could cut it with a knife.
1,5 HR DRIVE FROM AMMOS HOTEL
COASTAL WALK & WATER TAXI:
CHORA SFAKION - GLYKA BEACH - LOUTRA
Drive over the White Mountains and ascend to the little coastal port of Chora Sfakion. Park your car and start the coastal hike to Glyka Nera Beach (Sweetwater Beach). Traverse the rugged, rocky cliff paths looking down at crystal clear waters of the bluest of blue waters. Descend on to the pebbled Sweetwater Beach (the name originates from the freshwater that gushes out of the beach’s pebbled sand at various times of the day). This beach is my favourite in all of Greece.... the tiniest beach with a few umbrellas sitting at the base of this massive rockface. A tavern floats out on the water serving fresh seafood and my first taste of the Greek version of Ratatouille, Briam. TOP TIP: It’s also a naturist beach, so expect a little nudity.
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Saint Nicolas Church, Maza where such a rich display of historic art, so well preserved is a remarkable glimpse into the past. ; Classic Greek blue tables with a view at Tsalikis Fisherman Bar, a 30-minute stroll from your hotel base of Ammos. ; The spread, including the Boureki at Acropolis Taverna. ; Horiatiki or the village salad of Dris Taverna, Maza. ; Chair aficionados will love Ammos Beach Hotel.
After a boozy lunch and constant dips in and out of the sparkly water, you can pack up and take the water taxi to the next little port of Loutra. You could even overnight there at one of the many quaint hotels, but we just ordered Ouzo and a bucket of ice at the Akroyiali Beach Bar at the edge of town and chilled.
50 MIN (36km) DRIVE FROM CHORA SFAKION
DRIS TAVERNA & CHURCH OF AYIOS NIKOLAOS, MAZA VILLAGE
Drive back home over the White Mountains and make a stop at the 13th-century small single naved chapel of Saint Nicholas with its impressive frescoes by the famous hagiographer of Western Crete, Ioannis Pagomenos, who is believed to be buried on the floor of the temple. Dris Taverna shares a driveway with the chapel and is sprawled dramatically with pink bougainvillaea. This is a no menu kinda place, so let the owner Kostas guide you. If you’re a meat eater, they grill the lamb chops outside in the little square so the fragrant smoke could tempt you. For us, it was Greek salad and chips. A little delicious snack before the evening fiesta.
BRIAM ‘RATATOUILE’
SERVES 4
FOR THE VEGETABLES
2 Aubergines, sliced sideways into 2cm circles
2 red onions, quartered
250g cherry tomatoes, left whole
2 courgettes, sliced into 3cm circles
1 Red pepper, seeded and cut into large chunks
1 Green pepper, seeded and cut into large chunks
FOR THE HERB OIL
½ cup Olive oil (125ml) olive oil + ⅓ cup
(80ml) for drizzling
3 cloves of garlic, smashed and roughly chopped
1 T dried oregano
½ cup (15g) fresh flat-leaf parsley, roughly
chopped
1T salt
½t white pepper
680 g bottle tomato passata
Immerse the sliced potatoes in a large bowl filled with ice-cold water. Set aside.
Preheat the oven to 200°C
PREPARE THE HERB OIL: Add the ½ cup olive oil, garlic, parsley, oregano, salt and pepper to a large bowl and stir.
TOSS THE VEG: Add all the cut vegetables (aubergine, red onion, cherry tomatoes (left whole), courgettes and peppers) to the herb oil and toss to coat evenly. Use your hands; it’s a good kitchen tool. Add the bottle of Passata to the base of an oven-proof roasting dish. Swirl out the bottle with ½ cup (125ml) water and splash it over the passata. Spoon the seasoned vegetables on top of the passata in an even layer. Drizzle with another ⅓ cup olive oil. Cover with foil and bake for 40 minutes. Remove the foil and bake for another 40 minutes, or until the top has browned and the vegetables are tender. Allow to cool slightly before serving.
