Siargao - Tracy Heath
Intro by Jordan Roake
When Paths Cross: An Introduction to Soultribe by Jordan Roake
In 2019, my dad told my brother and me to pack a small suitcase each, and to only fill it with island-life necessities; cozzies, sunblock, a pair of flip-flops… You know, nothing fancy. Off we went, across the world, to land in a place that can only be described as paradise on earth. The above view detailed the bluest blue waters that surrounded thousands of lush, green islands. It’s a scene that iPhone pictures simply cannot do justice to (although many an iPhone pic I snapped). When we stepped onto Siargao, a warm breeze brushed our faces and told us of the fun that was to come. Now, if you want to get a more in-depth look into our stay on this island, you can find a whole chapter on the place in Castaway - we tell you about our favourite places, eats and people on the island.
LEFT: Something Siargao is never in short supply of… Breathtaking sunsets. RIGHT: The very spot where Jordan and her brother sat at Soultribe, sharing chats about how lucky they were to be in such a place.
I’ll tell you here, however, about one such favourite - a spot called Soultribe. Soultribe Beach Retreat is where we spent one leisurely afternoon enjoying eats from its in-house café called Khaya. Situated right on the beach, with a quaint little pool just outside the open-planned restaurant, we enjoyed brushing between the beach and the pool. We sat on the beach, just admiring our surroundings, with a curious and gentle dog or two under our arms (Siargao will make you fall in love with animals if you aren’t already an animal lover). Leisurely as ever, in between soaking in the late afternoon sun and looking through a selection of magazines, we enjoyed a selection of tasty vegetarian eats - our favourite was the Soultribe striped hummus served with pita bread - just what we needed after a day of salt, sun and sand. Our waitress informed us that her bosses, the owners of Soultribe, were also South African! What a small world, we thought… We realised that this small world is even smaller when Tracy Heath, one said owner, reached out to us all these years later to enquire about getting herself a copy of Castaway! Hailing from Zululand - a beautiful region of my very own province, Kwa-Zulu Natal, I knew immediately that we needed to form a relationship with Tracy! Below is a small story, a little guide, a peek into her life in Siargao - where she offers some insights to those wishing to visit this exquisite piece of heaven for themselves.
Where to stay: Soultribe! It’s a no-brainer.
Tracy’s Story: The Island Life Chose Me
My name is Tracy, and I’m a chef living out my dream in Siargao, the Philippines. One destiny-filled evening, a few cocktails and a Google search for “islands for sale” led my husband and I to a fun conversation about moving our lives to paradise. We stumbled across Siargao, and planned a trip to this tiny, beautiful island shortly after. Whilst we may not have purchased this glimmering beacon of paradise, upon landing on its rich, coconut-tree-dappled earth in 2014, we were struck by this feeling. A good, life-giving feeling that led us to settle on its shores. There’s something so magical about Siargao, that we’ve built our world around sharing it with anyone else who craves an escape from everyday life. That’s how Soultribe, our little slice of paradise in the form of a luxury surf and yoga lodge, came to be.
LEFT: All roads lead to the beach at Soultribe! RIGHT: Roll out of bed and step out onto this scene… Soultribe’s “front yard”. Not too shabby.
Making a Home in Paradise
My favourite place in the world is anywhere near the ocean! My current home may be Siargao, but my heart’s home, as I will tell anyone I can, is Zululand, South Africa. Travel has a funny way of connecting you to so many places, and yet reminding you of your roots - keeping you grounded to your origin and forever grateful for what it stands for. Nevertheless, Siargao is as heavenly a home as any. It’s home to me, my husband Khyle and our 2-year-old - our little captain Finn… Oh, and our many pets - we definitely cannot forget about them. There’s so much to tell you about our island paradise, so vast and full has our journey here been, so I’ll just start with this; if you are lucky enough to visit the Philippines, DO IT.
Tracy’s appreciation for the culture, people and lifestyle of Siargao is one of the many reasons that she and her husband fell so head-over-heels in love with the island they now call home.
When I Think of Our Island Home
Our first visit to Siargao carved some spectacular scenes into my memory. Coconut trees and an ever-changing ocean set the scene for these memories; their calming charm was something I knew I’d be happy to surround myself with for the foreseeable future. Now I wake up, every day, and find myself in awe of this charm. The coconut trees are ever-present and the ocean continues to sing its fluid songs and yet somehow, I never get bored of it.
Even after all these years, I find myself a tourist in my own home. Still in love with the terrain, my family loves to road trip around the island, stopping at the many great surf spots and local markets along the way. I’d suggest that anyone who visits Siargao takes a few road trips of their own. Ask your concierge about hiring a jeepney for the day to see the sights and scenes outstretched across the island. I’d also say that day trips to the surrounding islands are a must. A long day out on the ocean, with stops along the way that will take your breath away - small, peaceful and beautiful little islands dot the surrounding waters, and they’ll leave you in awe of this place.
Paradise Tastes Like…
Pan de Coco! Small buns baked in coals with gooey, delicious coconut molasses inside. These are especially great after a surf, served piping hot. While we are located a little outside the main, bustling centre, if you travel closer to Cloud Nine Beach, you’ll find an array of street-side vendors and restaurants to choose from.
Khaya
Located within Soultribe’s gorgeous grounds is Khaya, our seaside café and my love of food and cooking in action. It’s a space where I’ve spent many an hour testing out new recipes and finding inspiration.
Why the name Khaya, you ask? As previously mentioned, Zululand is my heart’s home and we wanted the space to resonate with this. Wanting to channel home, and this love for our roots, we chose the name Khaya for its Zulu meaning: home.
Our menu is designed around fresh local produce with a focus on healthy eating and a splash of soul. We support local artisans, as well as the organic farms around the island and we source our seafood from the local fishermen and women. The space consists of comfy couches with amazing views as well as a large community table to bring people together to share a meal or simply relax and enjoy a sunset cocktail with plenty of laughs.
A showcase of some of the wholesome, freshly-prepared eats and drinks from Khaya.
Where to stay
Soultribe:
I am a bit partial, but our home is Soultribe Beach Retreat and we have put all our heart and soul into this place and really can’t imagine ourselves anywhere else.
Visit Soultribe's website for more: https://www.soultribebeachretreat.com/
Kaha:
For trips to the north of the island we highly recommend Kaha, it is a short stroll from the beach and has a community kitchen and lounge that is so useful when up there as there are not many restaurants around.
LEFT: Find your inner “ommm” in Soultribe’s yoga studio. RIGHT: Soultribe’s grounds.
A culture of happiness
Siargao has always had a special aura. The locals are so kind and welcoming and the sense of community that stems from the early quieter times has been extended to everyone who has come to the island. It really is hard to describe but as most visitors will attest; once you have arrived it really is hard to leave.
If you find yourself on the island, head to the local fish market and ask if anyone has ‘Lato’ this is the local name for caviar seaweed that grows in the shallows nearby. It is deliciously prepared the same way as the kinilaw recipe in the Castaway cookbook. One of my favourite things to eat.
LEFT TO RIGHT: Not just for the pros. Hire a surfboard and test your skills in the water at Cloud Nine Beach; One of the best ways to see the island and its surrounds - by boat!; What’s an island stay without a little ocean exploration? Goggles on.
