Paros, Greece

24 augustus 2023

BY JORDAN ROAKE

Paros is the little slice of heaven you never knew you needed. No, really, you need this place. Not only are the views as picturesque as your wildest Greek holiday dreams, but this Greek island is also a vibrant mix of friendly locals, beautifully curated stores, and unmatched nightlife.

LEFT: Views from our “hidden” beach RIGHT: Walking the quaint streets of Naousa.

Getting There
Since we would be landing at Athens International Airport late at night, we opted to book a night’s stay at Piraeus Port Hotel, a quaint and neat little hotel located in the Piraeus port district of Athens. Following the kind instructions of our hotel concierge, we gathered our bags and found the X96 bus. The buses line up outside entrance 3, and you can buy your ticket from the sales office located alongside them. Saying this, the bus trip was a little on the stressful side. This may have been due to it being dark outside, and the speed at which the driver drove at, or maybe it was that the bus stop that our hotel advised us to get off at just vanished from the on-screen route… Nevertheless, we got off at the next best stop unscathed (of course) after 1,5 hours on the road.

If we were to do it again, we’d opt to get to Paros one of 2 other ways:

If, like us, you’re landing later in the day, do book a night’s stay at one of the port’s hotels (I can definitely recommend Piraeus Port Hotel - friendly service, helpful guidance and a neat and comfortable stay!) If the bus isn’t quite your speed (and by speed, we mean quite fast on the road… but again, I think we can put this stress down to traveller’s fatigue and the unknown route) then I’d definitely recommend getting the train to the port. The station is located across the road from departures (one floor up from arrivals). Buy a ticket from the easy-to-use ticket machines in the station, and take the Blue Line urban train that leads into the underground. The blue route will go from the airport to Dimotiko Theatro but you will need to get off at Piraeus stop (stop number 25 or the one right before Dimotiko). The tickets range in price and are priced according to how long you will need to use the metro (opt for the shortest option which is a 9-hour pass).
From the port, you will get the ferry to the island! To do this, buy a ferry ticket here: https://www.ferryscanner.com/en/ferry

LEFT TO RIGHT: Fig trees grow wild all over the island; Walking the quaint streets of Naousa; Finding my namesake in a bar in Naousa.

If it’s your first time getting a Greek ferry, it can be a little daunting. Just go with the flow and listen to the directions of the port authorities and you’ll be fine! My advice is to opt for a ticket that’s a little more expensive than the base economy. Base economy means that you need to stand/sit outside for the duration of the trip, and given that it’s a 4,5 hour ride, it’s best to have a booked seat inside with the option of sitting at one of the chairs and tables (but these are sometimes unavailable depending on when you get inside). The ushers will scan your ticket which you need to have downloaded on your mobile device, alternatively, you can visit the offices at the port where they will print them out for you. Get there an hour before your departure time! We booked with Blue Star Ferries which is both a person and car/truck carrier, so it is all a bit mad getting on and off… but that makes it all the more of an adventure!

Fly directly to Paros on Aegean Airlines! A friend we met along the way advised us to book flights early in advance as you can sometimes get a flight for as little as 30 euros! She also told us that your tickets include one checked-in bag and one carry-on which is great, but just check on this beforehand.

LEFT TO RIGHT: The mind-blowingly beautiful rooftop terrace at Alpha Studios, equipped with barbecue facilities and impeccable views; Arriving at Alpha Studios after a hot and sweaty walk from the bus; Our lovely stay, Alpha Studios.

Where to stay:
Wanting to be close to both the beach (we’re in Greece… I mean… who wouldn’t want to be?!) and the nightlife/restaurant scene, we booked a wonderful spot in Naousa which proved to be the right choice for both! The place we stayed at is called Alpha Studios and is owned and run by the ever-vibrant, friendly and knowledgeable (this woman speaks four languages… four!) Nicole. Nicole’s spot offers the perfect Grecian experience, with blue and white finishes, pink bougainvillaea and a rooftop terrace that seemed too good to be true when making our booking… but wasn’t! There are so many places to choose from on the island, and around the time that we visited (the beginning of June, right before the crazy busy season starts) you’re bound to find a great place within your budget. I must admit to being biased on the subject, though, as Alpha Studios delivered on every front! A brand new kitchenette with everything you could need, a beautiful, modern bathroom, a cute little balcony, 2 beds, a day bed AND a garden-facing patio. Nicole went above and beyond to make us feel at home, even offering to drive us to a beach that she loves. We didn’t have time to visit this beach with her that day, but were a couple of metres from the main beach below. It wasn’t our favourite beach on the island, however, as construction was taking place alongside the shores which disrupted the beach somewhat (but not so much that we didn’t enjoy a refreshing Aegean sea dip in its rolling waves).

Speaking of beaches…

LEFT TO RIGHT: Views from the road above Piperi Beach; Our favourite beach snacks: A cold Alfa beer and yoghurt & herb Lay’s; The houses built on the rocks surrounding Piperi Beach.

Piperi Beach
This is the beach mentioned above and is a favourite amongst tourists in Naousa. Protected on either side by the rock formations, in its prime (sans construction) I’d imagine this is one of the best spots to sit back, relax and take in the ocean scenes (and a cold Alfa beer). Which is exactly what we did, construction activity and all! It is a great swimming beach!

Hidden Gems…
My mom and I decided to see what lay behind the rolling rock formations and stumbled (quite literally… slops and all) onto a footpath leading us along the coastline. At the end of our impromptu “hike,” we found a delightful little hidden beach. Beware, with hidden beaches comes nudity. Something that doesn’t bother me, but just something to be in the know about - people love to get their tops off in Paros! I don’t know what this particular haven is called, or if it has a name at all, but found many a gem such as this one on one of my slightly hungover midday runs. I’m by no means a “runner” but it is my favourite form of exercise and now, one of my favourite ways to see the scenes of a new, undiscovered place. For once, I didn’t obsess over my Apple watch to see how far I’d gone or how fast I was going. Instead, I stopped at every beautiful scene (of which there were many) and took it all in. Fresh air, hangover cure, incredible views - what more could a girl want?!

LEFT TO RIGHT: Taking a stroll to find some hidden gem beaches; Taking a breather on our “hidden” beach; Stumbled across this gorgeous pool on our way back from the beach.

Santa Maria Beach
Spring for a bus ticket (a few euros) and head towards Santa Maria from Naousa for a different seascape. This beach is big, and filled nearly to the brim with rentable sunbeds and beach clubs. These clubs are expensive though, so I’d suggest packing a bag of snacks and drinks, and setting up your towels alongside the sunbedders. Also a great swimming spot! I must admit that I’m a bit of a wimp when it comes to the cold… Anything below 25 degrees Celsius and you’ll probably find me wrapped up in something warm. This means that, considering our beach visits were characteristically windy and the water was well, let’s say refreshing, I had to really force myself into the water. Once in, however, what a glorious time I had. Just wading about in the clear blue… I mean, that’s what finding yourself in paradise is all about.

Taking a dip in the clear blues of Santa Maria Beach.

There are so many beaches to choose from on Paros, so rent a car, get a few bus tickets and take a looooong walk and go, be, explore!

LEFT: Breakfast pastries from Rougoussis Bakery and birthday gifts. RIGHT: Views from the trail that navigates the island’s shore.

Eat & Play go hand in hand in Naousa
This is Greece, people. Good food is to be expected. Nay, great food. While eating out on a continuous basis can get pricy (hello kitchenette cooking experiences) we ate at some great spots. Paros, or Naousa in particular, is less traditional and more curated. The shops and restaurants are all alive with a great sense of pride and hard, considered design work. Below are a few of the spots we ate at during our stay. Expect something complimentary at every bar or restaurant. Be that bar snacks like mixed nuts, or post-dinner mastika. Greek hospitality oozes generosity.

LEFT: Housemade ice creams from Rougoussis Bakery: chocolate-dipped vanilla and baklava-wrapped vanilla. Kargas. RIGHT: Tucking into a halloumi gyro from Souvlakia

Ragouissis Bakery - Naousa
Walking into Ragoussis Bakery is like walking into a baked goods heaven. Everything from traditional baked pastries to the quintessential little homemade ice creams that adorn beautiful fridges to croissants, coffee, sandwiches and everything in between. On my mom’s birthday, I took a walk down to the bakery to pick up some pastries and coffees, and on two occasions I chose to indulge in their Greek yoghurt, homemade granola and fresh fruit cups (doesn’t sound indulgent… but it is!)

Gyros anyone?

Souvlakia Kargas - Naousa
This is an easy yes in almost everyone’s books. Fresh, charred flatbreads encase your filling of choice (in our case, halloumi and fresh veg), hot Greek fries and lashings of Tzatziki! There are plenty of eateries offering gyros, and they’re all a pretty cheap option (the most expensive board read “3,50 euros” which is a steal in comparison to any other eating out experience… even at home!) Wherever you choose to eat, be sure to order their house wine. It’s the cheapest on offer, and you won’t even miss the expensive bottles when they’re served in picture-perfect jugs and brought to the table with small 2-sip glasses. We enjoyed our gyros and wine at Souvlakia Kargas after a day at Piperi Beach… the perfect end to a beach day, if you ask me.

LEFT: Greek salad and marinated anchovies at Gavalas Café; RIGHT: Having a little post-dinner bash at Sousouro Bar.

Gavalas Café - Naousa
We enjoyed a celebratory dinner here in honour of my mom’s birthday and our first night in Paros. While Naousa sports a more slick, curated look, Gavalas will engulf you in a real taste of Greek hospitality and authenticity. Grab a seat in the alleyway, the vibe is sweet and the ambience is impeccable. In true holiday-maker style, the wine flowed, with 2 half-litre jugs continuously being replaced throughout the evening. Here we indulged in a sharing feast of Greek salad, marinated anchovies for the fish-eaters, imam (baked eggplant stuffed with herbs and cheese), mince-stuffed onions for the meaty folks and traditional, lemony-delicious boiled greens. We ended our night off with some sweet, lemony (and complimentary… there’s always something complimentary in Greece) baked pastries.

Sousouro Bar
While waiting for a table at Gavalas Café (it’s super popular so prepare to wait or book a table if possible) we had a few glasses of wine and ouzo at Sousouro bar. The vibe and service were immaculate, so immaculate in fact that we returned to Sousouro after dinner for a birthday drink and dance for my mom’s birthday that would begin at midnight. The DJ was on fire, playing some familiar afro-beats that sparked joy in us all. Bars similar to Sousouro line the alleyways of Naousa, all of which played great music. So take your pick and don’t forget to dance! Opa!

LEFT TO RIGHT: One of the many seaside bar spots in Naousa; Fresh bread, Greek salad, Alfa beer, stuffed cabbage rolls and fried potatoes at Flora Tavern; The terrace views from Flora Tavern.

Flora Tavern - Lefkés
https://floratavern.com/

Flora Tavern is uber traditional and bouts of fun. Grab a seat on the terrace for an unbelievable view and make sure you order the chickpeas… Trust me on this one. I never knew that chickpeas could be so incredibly delicious outside of a great Middle Eastern hoummus. The wine flows, the vibe is awesome and again, that view. Wowza! On this day we chose to share in the Greek flavours, ordering a spread of sharing plates that included fava pureé (get a great recipe for this in the Castaway Cookbook or here https://castawaycooks.com/blogs/eats/kefalonia-fava-puree-chargrilled-asparagus), fresh bread, Greek fried potatoes, Greek salad (duh) and a fiery garlic dip (no kisses for the missus on this day).

Cook at Home!
Eating out can get expensive, no matter where you are in the world. So I suggest getting a place with a kitchen or kitchenette and grabbing a few ingredients from your nearest grocery store. For my mom’s actual birthday, we hosted a vegetarian barbecue on Alpha Studio's immense and gorgeous rooftop terrace. The produce in Greece is exceptional. Think HUGE zucchini, flavoursome tomatoes and the tastiest potatoes I’ve ever had (they actually taste like something… with nothing on them at all!!!) We made a warm salad of grilled zucchini and halloumi with red onion and tomato salsa, a Greek potato salad (baby potatoes, capers, olive oil… all the delicious stuff… I mean, Greek olive oil… am I right), olives and vegetable pickles.

Our spoils from the local supermarket, prepping for my mom’s birthday barbecue of Greek dreams.

Day Trip Anyone? History, Culture and Shopping Awaits.

On our last day, we decided to rent a car (which is a very easy process in Paros, with rental spots dotted around Naousa) and venture out to see the sights. With no real itinerary in mind, we hopped in the car and stopped off at a few amazing spots along the way before enjoying lunch at the aforementioned Flora Café.

Concept Stores
My mom, the brilliant fashion designer extraordinaire Colleen Eitzen, wanted to visit some of the island’s beautiful concept stores. Unfortunately, most were closed during the time we chose to venture their way (you’ll find that a few places close between 2 and 7 pm) but we did some great window shopping nevertheless. We did find one store that was open and found some gorgeous pieces inside. Bespoke fashion and accessories, magnificently sprawled across a huge space. (name) Next door, a closed art gallery elegantly sat. A somewhat random location that made these spots all the more interesting.

LEFT: One of the many churches we stopped at along our day trip. RIGHT: The awe-inspiring interiors of the Holy Church of the Virgin Mary Ekatontapyliani.

Losing (or Finding) My Religion
The churches… man oh man, the churches. Dotted all over the island, we stopped to indulge in their gorgeous architecture along the way. Differing from these gorgeous white and blue marvels (marvellous yet tiny) was the Holy Church of the Virgin Mary Ekatontapyliani with an adjoining Byzantine museum. Both the interior and exterior, a marvel of stone and gold adornments. Inside, an overwhelmingly detailed space that makes one want to sit and take it all in. Note: You need to be modestly dressed to enter the church, but that Greek generosity comes into play once again with cotton skirts and scarves hanging outside for free use.

Greek history
We popped into the Archaeological Museum of Paros to marvel at the Greek history that lay inside. Your Greece stay doesn’t have to revolve around the ancient sites, but I’d put it down as a must-do. Ancient Greece did, after all, give us all those great things like modern-day democracy, philosophical geniuses and more. Give it a bash, enlighten your mind! The world is vast, and learning should never end.

LEFT TO RIGHT: The entrance to the Archaeological Museum of Paros in Parikia; Taking a stroll through the Archaeological Museum; The treasures of the Archaeological Museum of Paros.

Trails and Other Cool Stuff
While we didn’t venture onto the trails (learned my lesson previously, and was not about to try out my slops on these mountainous paths) there were many stops with cars parked at the top, indicating their popularity amongst the trail-seekers. We also took a risky drive up one of these mountains to a ceramics workshop where we met the artist himself. There was a brilliant charm to this visit, as he worked with his 3 dogs alongside him who all scurried towards us to say hello. Speaking of animals, I hope you’re an animal lover because Paros (and Greece in general) is full of island cats. Most of the cats have been sterilised, showing the nation’s commitment to curbing the tray animal epidemic. They’re mostly friendly, and as a cat lover, I was in my element.

LEFT: The ceramicist at work. RIGHT: Only the Greeks can make mini mart signage so picture-worthy; spotted in San Antonio.

If you’ve got time, swing past one of the beach bars in San Antonio. It’s a little touristy, but the water is blue as can be and you can always use it as an opportunity to pick up a trinket or gift for someone back home.

Overall, Paros is an island that’s filled with so much to do, see and taste. Our 3-day trip felt long enough to enjoy all the right things, but I wouldn’t shy away from an extra day or 2 as it really is buzzing with potential for Castaway-esque good times.