Kefalonia - An Overview of Fiskardo

5 mei 2023

Written by Beth Stols.

It’s that kind of feeling as you arrive, weary after a long journey - that suddenly hits you by surprise. The simultaneous coming together of all the senses – sight, stimulation, smell and tactility - you’re immediately drawn in and suddenly you know you are in for a unique experience.

LEFT: Fiskardo, just north of the hubbub of Argostoli
RIGHT: Kefalonia is the largest of the Ionian Islands in western Greece

Looking for an epic Greek escape?
Kefalonia is the largest of the seven Greek Ionian islands – nestled west of the Greek mainland – and a mere hop, skip and jump on a ferry from Athens.

Famed as THE location for the movie – Captain Corelli’s Mandolin, Kefalonia boasts the rugged landscapes and limestone cliffs stereotypical of Greek terrain. Argostoli is the commercial hub and capital of Kefalonia and is a modern Greek city. But peel back the superficial tourist expectations, travel just a little further north on incredibly winding roads and the island offers a surprise – an unsurpassed unveiling of softened shores, sandy coves and outcrops of greenery with verdant vegetation.

ABOVE: The rugged landscape that inspired the famous movie “Captain Corelli’s Mandolin.”

Slow Livin’ in Fiskardo Village
Our base for the week was Fiskardo – a picturesque town at the northernmost point of Kefalonia. With dense forests of coastal cypress trees and perennial pines protected under Greek law, the setting is quite unique. The architecture is a blend of original Venetian influence with a Greek twist. Fiskardo was miraculously spared damage by the catastrophic Ionian earthquake in 1953 and pink bougainvillea and bursting Van Gogh sunflowers frame pastel-aged buildings that have stood the test of time.

Fashionable as a quick stopover by super yacht jet setters, Fiskardo has managed to preserve its unique charm and authenticity. Local is revered here and proudly celebrated. The sense of community is strong, and tradition is steeped in owner-run establishments.

Because the island virtually closes during the winter off-season, there is a sense of celebration – of revelling in the long summer days and balmy evenings. Most of the restaurants are outdoors and nestled alongside the bustling 2km contoured bay – one seating area flows seamlessly into the next, waiters jostle for business and the atmosphere is genial.

Here time flows at a slow pace. Fiskardo is not the place for party revellers – it’s a gentle escape from reality. There’s the casual routine of a morning swim in one of the many secluded bays or the discovery of a sheltered cave or the lulling in the waters along a sandy stretch of beach. Or it’s the dipping over the boat and swimming to one of the olive-treed ancient beaches to have a feast of fresh baguettes, local cheeses, olives, hams and the chilled local wine of the Robola variety – cultivated in specific areas of the island.

Then there’s the dusk routine of meandering down to the harbour to a favourite spot for a pre-dinner drink as the sun is setting, having a catch-up with the local store owners along the way and greeting the old lady sitting on her bench on her verandah chatting to her neighbour.

LEFT TO RIGHT: The beach in front of Villa Dorian, from where we were blessed with exquisite views; Beth and her daughter, Sarah, stop to smell the Bougainvillea on steroids in Fiskardo; One of the many island cats that graced us with its friendly presence.

Eat, drink & be merry
Food and liquor always taste better in this type of environment. During these languid endless summer months – there’s no need to rush – dinner is enjoyed well into the night and the walk back home after, is taken at a slow pace enjoyed for its post-digestive advantages – or capped by a stop off at the local Gelato shop to taste that day’s speciality.

A popular method of cooking here is on the open coals - Charcoal fires offer up delicious treats of whole grilled fish, octopus and sardines – all freshly caught by the local fishing fleet – accompanied by their speciality of grilled cheese, and grilled fennel, aubergines and courgettes - lightly sprinkled with fresh Origanum and thyme. The traditional Kefalonian meat pie, gyros, souvlaki, fava, taramasalata, kolokithokeftedes and moussaka are all authentic offerings on handwritten menu boards.

Salads are simple, delicious and unpretentious – time and care are taken to dip ripened vine tomatoes in hot water to remove their outer skins and then present them simply on fresh rocket, with large dollops of local olive oil.

Kindness in abundance
It’s often said that you can tell the character of a community by the way it treats its animals – if this rings true then the locals have all earned respect. Feral cats are in abundance on the island but are not regarded as a menace – locals rally around and have organised, designated feeding stations and shop owners are often seen handing out titbits to the little stragglers hanging around the alleyways.

Fiskardo is definitely one for the bucket list.

LEFT: The crystal clear waters of Kefalonia; Some Classic Greek Architecture found all over the island

Must Do’s

Foki Beach:
Sip iced Robola wine under the 100-year-old olive trees. Then amble barefoot across the road in your sarong to the local Taverna to savour the specials of the day. And perhaps an Ouzo or two.

Myrtos Beach:
Turquoise waters, a white pebbled beach surrounded by limestone cliffs – Insta perfect.

SAMI – picturesque little village steeped in time. Meander around and then have a local meal at one of the many Tavernas.

Assos:
A quaint fishing village with a strong Venetian heritage. No cars are allowed on the main street.

Hire a boat and explore the coastline for cave swimming and calm pebble beach hideaways. Or hop across to Ithaca for the day.

Ithaca:
Known as the ‘home island’ of Ulysses – quaint and authentic. An overnight stay here does the trick.

Rent scooters and explore the island – it can be circumnavigated in 2 hours. The mountain roads are incredibly winding but offer up breathtaking vistas.

Traveller’s Tips
Prebook your fresh fish catches daily – demand exceeds supply.

Get to the local bakery early for your fresh bread.

Listen for the daily fruit and veg truck that canvasses up and down the main road selling freshly picked seasonal delights.

LEFT TO RIGHT: Foki Beach in all its sunshine-filled, leisurely glory; A walk on the Lighthouse Trail; Taking in the landscape by scooter.

Favourite Trails

Lighthouse Trail:
The route takes you to both the original Venetian lighthouse and the modern one and then onto the ruins of an ancient pre–Christian Basilica. (6-8 century)

Easy hike through coastal cypress trees. Have a dip in the turquoise sea at the foot of the lighthouse.

Cypress Trail:
Meander from Foki Bay through ancient stone residences with abundant bougainvillaea to the top of St Gerasimos – an 18th-century church and on to an ancient olive press.