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Thulusdoo, Maldives

Thulusdoo, Maldives

"Coke's Island"
Written by Sam Scarborough

LEFT: Where you’ll find Thulusdoo: The Kaafu Isles
RIGHT: The peanut satay at Sands Exotica is a must.

THULUSDHOO? WHAT?! WHERE?
Located 28km north of Malé, the Maldives’ most populous city, is Thulusdhoo. Boasting a tiny population of 1400 people, Thulusdhoo is the capital of Kaafu Atoll and proves the perfect escape from the crowds (I mean, 1400 people… That’s some peace and quiet just waiting to be visited).
Despite its small population, even in the most unassuming places, the big corporations still live and thrive. Enter, the Coca-Cola factory on Thulusdhoo island - built in the 80s and a point of attraction to the island’s visitors - even giving the island the name “Coke’s Island” in some circles. In addition, the name of the popular soda company migrated to the nearest surf spot called Coke’s.
There are about 20 guest houses and hotels on the island, which is surprising as it really feels like a four-street village. The most popular thing to do on Thulusdhoo island is surfing - considered one of the best local island surfing spots in the Maldives and it was actually the surfers who brought local tourism to the island in the 70s. So surfing and soda are two noteworthy cultural aspects of this serene island getaway.

 

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Breakfast at Sands Exotica, Martina and Mandala workshops, Trip to the sand bank, lunch is served, views on the run loop

WHAT BROUGHT YOU TO THIS ISLAND?
I was hanging around Malé in Hulhumale, in transit, with nothing to do... and wanted to go to a local island. A conversation on a run with a random stranger led me to Thulusdhoo, considered one of the best local island surfing spots in the Maldives. I was introduced to the most wonderful guesthouse manager, Martina, who organised everything from the speed boat transfer to accommodation, to a sandbank excursion, and let's not forget the sunset Bar Boat G&T’s!
WHERE TO STAY, WHAT TO DO, WHERE TO GO
I stayed at Sands Exotica, a 4-star boutique Island style hotel in the middle of the island, run by my friend Martina. (Sands Exotic Hotel - Thulusdhoo Island, Maldives) https://www.facebook.com/Sandshotelthulusdhoo
On arrival, Martina picked me up on her scooter and gave me an island tour. We went for lunch at the Sand Bar and had a delicious vegan meal of falafel and hummus. What a great welcome!

WHAT SURPRISED YOU MOST ABOUT THIS ISLAND?
The relaxed atmosphere and surfer vibe was refreshing from the usual resort-style holidays in the Maldives. The island caters for everyone, backpackers, families, low-budget dorm rooms to 5-star accommodations. Towards the South of the island, there are no buildings and a nice track to do a good run.

 

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Breakfast at Sands Exotica, Martina and Mandala workshops, Trip to the sand bank, lunch is served, views on the run loop

A LONG-LASTING MEMORY
Yes, because as mentioned, Maldives is mainly made up of package-style resorts, and it is not that popular to explore the local islands. I guess meeting Martina and choosing this island randomly one day when I was kind of stranded, made me trust that the universe often provides and sends me to wonderful places. It was such a great escape from the hectic buzz of Hulhumalé and a wonderful experience.
WHAT AND WHERE TO EAT
The food at Sand Exotica, cooked by Martina and her team is outstanding. There are also so many other little restaurants to choose from, some at the small hotels and some really local ones in the village. All cater for vegans and vegetarians, for families and for backpackers and surfers, and surprisingly for an island that relies on the local boats for deliveries, all the food was fresh, healthy and deliciously refreshing.
On the local islands in the Maldives, because of the Muslim religion, you cannot drink or buy alcohol under Maldivian law. Because the Maldives is alcohol-free, you can only consume alcohol on the resort islands or in the sea!
But, if you would like a drink, there is a Bar Boat that hangs offshore of Thulusdhoo. I had a fun night with Martina, we were skippered there in a tiny white boat, in rather big waves. We had a spectacular sunset and a few G&T’s and a very dark boat ride home! What fun and a real experience!

ABOVE: The streets of Thulusdhoo are a throwback from another time

SITES TO SEE
I recommend at least 3 days in Thulusdhoo if you are planning to relax and do at least one day trip. If you are a surfer, I highly recommend this island - you can stay for a week if you plan to have surf lessons or just surf for a few days. I was tempted, but after scouting the waves and reef breaks, I decided I should rather surf a few more times before venturing out into these waters, especially after hearing that Kelly Slater had been visiting just two weeks before! Kind of out of my surfing league ;)
Sandbank island excursions are a must for snorkelling if the visibility is good. You can also go diving on this island. But predominantly, it is a surfing spot.
WHAT’S TO LOVE
Relaxed atmosphere, families and young people, locals and tourists, it all felt super casual and fun.

ABOVE: Tuna & Coconut Salad at Conopus Restaurant.

WORD TO THE WISE
Take cash as there is only one ATM on the island and it is often out of use.
There is only one bikini beach for tourists, and you can only suntan and swim here - it is a lovely vibey beach, so get there early, although it never felt too crowded. It is a nice spot to watch the surfers get their boat rides out to the breaks too!
MEET ANYONE INTERESTING ALONG THE WAY?
I met Martina who made my stay amazing, it is always good to have contact and she went the extra mile to show me around and to make sure I enjoyed the island. Martina is from the Czech Republic and has spent 3 years in Maldives – she fell in love with the place and has returned to work and live there. I also did one of her mandala painting workshops, a must if you visit the island @joali_girl for more info.

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