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Day Tripping on Cíes Island in Galicia, Spain
Written by Crystal
Stumbling upon a laid-back middle-of-nowhere local restaurant when already in the throws of hangry, and greeted with a very cold bottle of Albariño - is my kind of unforgettable delight.
LEFT: The calming blue views of Cíes Island – what island dreams are made of. RIGHT: My family enjoying a walk through the protected natural reserve of Cíes.
We’re on one of Cíes Island apparently, one of the archipelagos making up The Cíes Islands of Galicia National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage candidate (accompanied by Ons, Sálvora and Cortegada) is located off the coast of Pontevedra in Galicia, Spain, the stuff of legendary pristine beaches and crystal clear waters - although I didn’t know it at the time. I am far more comfortable in following than being followed, and I leave all the planning to my partner, who luckily for me is an adventurer who seeks out good views and good food. It's not that I don't like knowing what I'm going to get into, it's that I'm very comfortable with the serendipity and prefer to keep the experience raw and lived in the moment. So the idea to travel to Cíes, was not mine, and I did not lift an eyebrow of curiosity before I found myself on the ferry heading into the sea. In fact, I did not research anything at all until we were returning at the end of that day, salty, small shells stuck on our feet, a little sunburnt, well-fed and adventure-fulfilled. That's when I found out it's the 'Caribbean of Europe' and has ‘some of Europe's most beautiful beaches'.
LEFT: The UNREAL blue waters of Cíes – a feast for the eyes. RIGHT: The kids immersing themselves in the vibrant blues of one of Cíes Island’s dreamy beaches.
Getting Around, Seeing the Sights
After an hour-long ferry from Vigo, expect to arrive at an island small enough to walk around, but big enough to lose sight of all the other people. Absolutely pristine, and teeming with wildlife, there are birds pirouetting through the pines that line one end of the island, and fish leaping out of the turquoise waters to wave as you pass by. Wander the grassy plains and wildflowers on the other side, meader up to the top of the hill for views of the sea blending blue into the horizons, then sink into the silence and commune with the crickets. Since Cíes is a designated nature reserve, its cliffs and rocky outcrops are a sanctuary for birds, bunny rabbits, boar, and occasionally the odd Peregrine falcon.
After an hour-long ferry from Vigo, expect to arrive at an island small enough to walk around, but big enough to lose sight of all the other people. Absolutely pristine, and teeming with wildlife, there are birds pirouetting through the pines that line one end of the island, and fish leaping out of the turquoise waters to wave as you pass by. Wander the grassy plains and wildflowers on the other side, meader up to the top of the hill for views of the sea blending blue into the horizons, then sink into the silence and commune with the crickets. Since Cíes is a designated nature reserve, its cliffs and rocky outcrops are a sanctuary for birds, bunny rabbits, boar, and occasionally the odd Peregrine falcon.
LEFT TO RIGHT: The protected wildlife of the Cíes Islands (Photographer: Eduardo Casajús); This… This is the reason this place is protected. Nothing quite like witnessing untouched natural wonders; A few natural treasures spotted along our island journey through Cíes.
Oh, to beach all day
At the far side of the island, there are three medium-sized beaches with gentle waves that break on the clear turquoise waters and lap onto white sands made up of tiny crushed seashells and unicorn horns. Seriously. We swam in those piercingly cold waters, which were very refreshing, and you’ll find much needed after a couple of bottles Albariño drank in the sun. Playa de Rodas, often referred to as one of the most beautiful beaches in the world, has the best of the white sands and clear waters and is worth the walk.
At the far side of the island, there are three medium-sized beaches with gentle waves that break on the clear turquoise waters and lap onto white sands made up of tiny crushed seashells and unicorn horns. Seriously. We swam in those piercingly cold waters, which were very refreshing, and you’ll find much needed after a couple of bottles Albariño drank in the sun. Playa de Rodas, often referred to as one of the most beautiful beaches in the world, has the best of the white sands and clear waters and is worth the walk.
LEFT: The characteristic blue waters of the Cíes Islands (photographer: Isabel Piñeiro). RIGHT: Getting in touch with nature on a trail hike through the protected reserve of Cíes Island.
Where to Eat? Only one place springs to mind…
We may have lingered on the beach too long. Our restaurant, the only restaurant on the island, sells fresh grilled fish of the day and nothing much else, and, had what felt like a very long haphazard queue of impatient diners fully aware that it’s the only restaurant on the island. Once we got a table, a piece of paper with a wide selection of different fish scribbled down on it was shared. The choice: choose fried or grilled. If you don’t like fish, you may want to bring a picnic for the day instead.
We may have lingered on the beach too long. Our restaurant, the only restaurant on the island, sells fresh grilled fish of the day and nothing much else, and, had what felt like a very long haphazard queue of impatient diners fully aware that it’s the only restaurant on the island. Once we got a table, a piece of paper with a wide selection of different fish scribbled down on it was shared. The choice: choose fried or grilled. If you don’t like fish, you may want to bring a picnic for the day instead.
It’s possible that we ordered too many fish dishes, but we were hungry and wanted to try them all, fried ‘raya’ and ‘chinchos’ - tiny mackerels that you gobble up heads and all, and a side of beautifully browned grilled ‘rape’. A garden salad with wide buttery green leaves, brutal chunks of tomato and white onion, and a sharp red vinegar to cut the olive oil. Boiled ‘cachelos’, small chunky slices of brown potatoes in their peel. Not your common variety of floury potatoes, these are yellow, waxy and earthy, deserving of their sole vegetable place on the plate, tasting the way potatoes should taste. Charred little ‘pimientos de Padrón’ to start - watch out, every now and again one of them is spicy “uns pican, e outros non”, so they say. Three hours later, at the end of the meal, we’re all poured chartreuse shots of 'orujo', a sour liquor which we slowly sipped and savoured as we basked in the afternoon sun on a full belly looking out into the sea.
LEFT TO RIGHT: Stopping for lunch at Bar Restaurante Serafin, Cíes Island (the only place to eat?); Tucking into A LOT of fish at the island’s only restaurant at the time; It doesn’t get more authentic than a hand-written menu, does it?
To stay or not to stay?
Regardless of how slow and lazy you feel in the moment, I don’t recommend staying on the island. There is a campsite on the island, which was empty when we went, as it still wasn't in season. As idyllic as that sounds, the tents are very close to one another and it looks like it could be a very hot and communal experience, even though the tent site is in the middle of a pine forest. There is an uninspiring rations shop which sells cans and chocolates and the joys of UHT milk, and presumably toilet paper. Personally, I prefer good food, a proper bed and a hot shower at the end of the day. In my opinion, a better option would be to avoid the campsite completely and stay in Vigo, or any of the nearby towns on the coast.
Regardless of how slow and lazy you feel in the moment, I don’t recommend staying on the island. There is a campsite on the island, which was empty when we went, as it still wasn't in season. As idyllic as that sounds, the tents are very close to one another and it looks like it could be a very hot and communal experience, even though the tent site is in the middle of a pine forest. There is an uninspiring rations shop which sells cans and chocolates and the joys of UHT milk, and presumably toilet paper. Personally, I prefer good food, a proper bed and a hot shower at the end of the day. In my opinion, a better option would be to avoid the campsite completely and stay in Vigo, or any of the nearby towns on the coast.
ABOVE: Views from the reserve – a sight to behold.
Getting to Cíes Island
Getting to the island is a little tricky as it involves getting a permit, - watch out there is a daily limit of visitors - and catching an hour-long ferry that takes you along the edges of the coastline from Vigo. The trickiness is exactly what keeps the island one of Europe’s best-kept secrets, tell yourself that, and that it’s worth the effort of planning the trip properly. Once that’s out of the way, pack your bikini, hop on that ferry, and immerse yourself in the island's charm. You’re ready to explore your own adventure on the island of Cíes.
Getting to the island is a little tricky as it involves getting a permit, - watch out there is a daily limit of visitors - and catching an hour-long ferry that takes you along the edges of the coastline from Vigo. The trickiness is exactly what keeps the island one of Europe’s best-kept secrets, tell yourself that, and that it’s worth the effort of planning the trip properly. Once that’s out of the way, pack your bikini, hop on that ferry, and immerse yourself in the island's charm. You’re ready to explore your own adventure on the island of Cíes.
ABOVE: A lighthouse in the Cíes Islands sits in perfect harmony with its surrounds (Photographer: Paula Pereira).
